Clare

Why I don't like Doolin

I see Doolin on every Irish itinerary that gets posted in Irish travel groups. It makes sense, it's the home of the Cliffs of Moher and the port for ferries heading to the Aran Islands.

I just spent two days in Doolin, I've been there a few times before, and while I expected that it would be touristy, I wasn't prepared for just how overrun it has become.

Disney Doolin

If there's one word, I repeatedly see associated with Doolin, it's authentic. "OMG, I loved how authentic and cute Doolin was". No, it's not authentic anymore.

When 95% of the people in Doolin are tourists and the other 5% are staff. That's a ratio you find in Mickey Mouse Land. There's nothing authentic about that.

When souvenir shops are painted bright colours, it's not authentic.

When every house is a guest house, it's not authentic.

When there is no local shop, because there are no locals, it's not authentic.

But the trad music...

Yes, Doolin is historically home to some of Ireland's best trad music, but when the musicians are performing for an audience that are all tourists, there's nothing authentic about that.

It’s the audience, the rapport between the regulars, and the shared knowledge of the music and the stories behind the tunes.

That can never be recreated in a tourist bar, especially when the bar's walls are covered in police badges.

Doolin, the 51st State

I went into four bars in Doolin. Nearly everyone in each of the bars were American. American politicians would do well to set up an outpost here to canvass for votes. Don't read that as anything anti-American. Just an observation.

When I ordered a drink, the barman gave me a second look when he heard my Irish accent. He wasn't expecting that.

When I showed up for my excellent Cliffs walking tour (which had the single best views of the cliffs I saw from a private farmer's land), the guide said they never have Irish guests.

The Irish & Euro tourist seems to have figured out Doolin and has gone elsewhere.

The Local Take

A good friend of mine has worked in Doolin for ten years. I'll keep her nameless since it's a small place, but she said she doesn't feel like it's Ireland anymore. An ironic statement considering how many tourists think it's authentic Ireland.

Don't Skip the Region

Tourism is a vital part of the economy here, and the beauty of the landscape demands visitors. I love the Cliffs of Moher so much so that I saw them three ways, by boat, by walking tour and by the regular experience.

That cliff walking tour in particular was gorgeous.

Just stay somewhere other than Doolin. I stay in nearby Ballyvaughan at one my favourite guesthouses in Ireland which has its own natural spring well inside the house. Fill your water bottles from the well.

In Ballyvaughan, I watched a hurling match in a bar full of locals. Now that's authentic.

The Aran Islands

The Aran Islands should be on your itinerary. Inis Oírr is my favourite of the three Aran Islands, do this tour that includes tea & scones with a local islander!

Stay overnight on Inis Oirr for the unique experience of spending a night on an Irish-speaking island. The island is special, but even more so after all the other day trippers have gone back to Doolin. Take the first boat back to Doolin the next day and see the cliffs from the water. It's the closest that you will get to them.