Dame Line: A Walk from Trinity College to Guinness Storehouse
Dublin Without Maps
Dublin's twisted streets confuse visitors. Vikings cities weren't built for tourists. My solution is Lines
- Each line follows one main street. Like a walking subway line
- With stops on and just off the route
- Never worry about getting lost
Dame Line
We’ll start with the Dame Line. It takes in a lot of the most popular sites in the city. Trinity, Books of Kells, Temple Bar, Dublin Castle, Christchurch, the Liberties and Guinness.
This follows Dame Street. Once you're past Christchurch, it becomes Thomas Street. Just remember those two streets and you won't get lost !
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1.Trinity College Dublin
Trinity is a 432 year old university in the heart of Dublin City. It is free to walk through its historic grounds. Be sure to explore more than just the main square, this is a big campus full of fabulous old buildings.
It takes 12 minutes to walk from the front entrance to the back. I know this because I studied here for four years and my engineering school was at the very end of Trinity. I had it nailed down to the minute how long it took me to get to class just as the lecturer walked in.
Current Trinity students lead a 45 minute tour of the Trinity College campus which is excellent because you're hearing directly about the history and life from them.
2.The Book Of Kells
1 million people a year come to see this little old book. The Book of Kells is a 1,200-year old manuscript of the four Gospels. Yes, it's historically significant, but you'll only see four pages under glass for about 30 seconds.
More impressive to me is the 300 year old Old Library's Long Room. Think the kind of ancient library that Harry Potter would whizz around on. It usually holds about 200,000 books, but today its shelves are mostly empty due to fire system being installed. It’s still very cool to see.
The tour ends in a recently built red monstrosity. It looks like a red Ikea in the middle of this Elizabethan university While they'll tell you it was built for a digital experience of the Book of Kells, it was really built to expand the souvenir shop.
Book ahead. This is very popular. Book the fast pass to skip the long line here
3.Temple Bar
From Trinity, as you walk along Dame Street, turn down any street on the right.
You are now in Temple Bar. I'm going to be careful because I'm not a big fan of Temple Bar and I've written quite negatively about it. So let me say something positive.
During the day Temple Bar is nice. The area was originally designed as a project to dilapidated old buildings into an artistic quarter.There are studios, galleries & vintage stores here that make it interesting to walk through during the day. Go elsewhere at night though.
I'll Show You Dublin City. No Maps. No Stress. Lots of Stories
- I'll guide you on a private tour. Any day or time.
- 3 hours & just €150 for up to 4 people.
At the weekend, Temple Bar is full of Hen & Stag parties (Bachelor parties for our American friends). The Hens are probably going to the Irish Dance Party to learn how to Irish dance. Run by my good friend & talented musician, Dan.
4.Dublin Castle
Dublin Castle isn't a big hilltop castle like Edinburgh. The castle was built in 1204 and was probably impressive then. But it burned down in 1684.
Today the Record Tower remains and looks like a classic castle, but it's attached to 18th century version of government office buildings. I went on a tour of Dublin myself this weekend (call it continuing education for a tour guide) and it was absolutely packed. Go very early in the morning to see it at its best. The best views are from the back. This is true of a lot of tourist places! They're quieter and you get better photos.
You can pay to tour the buildings but it's mostly old furniture and paintings of self important old men. I wouldn't bother.
5 Dubh Linn Gardens & Chester Beatty Library
The best part of Dublin Castle is its gardens behind it. A nice spot for some coffee in the morning before it gets busy.
There is a highly rated museum of Islamic artifacts in Dublin Castle. Strange, but here is why. Old Chester was a rich American miner with a lung condition. He lived in Ireland but found that Egypt's dry air was good for his health. He bought antiquities there and brought them back to Ireland.
Interesting back story, but I go mostly for the amazing food in its Silk Road Cafe.
Do This Walk With Me
- It's more interesting when you hear the stories behind the buildings
- I did went on an another guide's group walk last week. It was very impersonal with 32 in the group and we wore earpieces to hear.
- My walks are like a stroll with your Irish friend. Very personal and fun.
- 3 hours & just €150 for up to 4 people.
6.Christchurch Cathedral
Vikings used to go to this 1000 year old church. I actually rang the bells at Christchurch last year! You can do a tour of it if you like old churches. The crypt below was the most interesting for me. Not for religious reasons but to see the real cool mummified remains of Tom & Jerry, a cat and rat who got stuck in an organ pipe.
Book your Christchurch tour
Hotels Along The Dame Route
This is an excellent part of Dublin to stay. Very central. The Leonardo is probably the hotel that I recommend the most in Dublin. Lovely hotel. There's a parking garage around the corner and it's a good location if you have a car. It's not too deep into the city to navigate. Plus my local bar in town, The Lord Edward is right next door. A true local Dublin pub!
- The Leonardo Dublin Christchurch. It is directly across from Christchurch Cathedral. Perfect location.
- StayCity Dublin Castle. More apartments than hotel. I used to live around the corner and it's a great area.
- NYX Hotel Dublin. You can see Dublin Castle from its entrance. Just on the very edge of Temple Bar too, but far enough away not to be bothered by it.
- The Chancery. In a quiet location tucked away behind Dublin Castle, modern and extremely comfortable. I like the Le Pole Square park next to it.
7.Dublinia
Thank God for Netflix. I used to have to explain who The Vikings were but Netflix has educated people now and it's make my job easier.
Anyway, they came to Dublin around 850. Not so much to pillage and do other bad things, but more to trade (and with no tariffs). They even gave Dublin its name. They call it "Dubh Linn" meaning "Black Pool".
Dublinia is a museum about Vikings and the medieval history of Dublin. I just went again recently and is was better than I remember. I nearly think it's too detailed. You come out with a PhD in Irish history if you can remember everything you just read. If you're into history, then you'll love it. If it's a rainy day, it's a perfect. Admission is included with the Dublin Pass
A Short Rant
Are you very interested in the history of Dublin? If so, then you'll love all these museums & churches. But I just feel that so many people go to them because "it's what you do". But no one on the Dublinia tour looked super excited.
But when people come on walking tour with me in one of our coastal villages, their eyes light up, they're actually exploring Dublin. Did you know that Dublin is the only capital city in the world that is in a UNESCO Biosphere?
So be sure to see the natural Dublin too. Don't just walk through stuffy museums.
Here are my five best walks in Dublin to show you this side of Dublin that most visitors don't even know exist. I leave private & group tours on them too!
Darragh
8.St Audoen’s Church
I'm immediately going to undermine myself after that rant by saying I love this old church. This is the only remaining medieval parish church in the capital, which means there have been services going on here for 900 years! And it has lovely gardens to rest your feet.
But even more exciting is that it is home to the only surviving gate to Medieval Dublin. Dublin used to be a walled city, you see the walls around parts of town. But the only gate still surviving is right here in the grounds of St Audoen's.
But it's hidden. Come on my tour and I'll show it to you. Or if you remember my tip from Dublin Castle, you might find it yourself.
9.The Liberties
The road curves a little and now you're on Thomas Street. This is the Liberties area of Dublin. It's called the Liberties because it used to be outside the city walls, so the people living here had more freedom than those within. It still has a rebellious, independent feel today. I love this part of town.
The Liberties is gentrifying fast, but it’s still full of character. You'll see modern day Molly Malone street traders selling toilet roll in front of an Argentinian bakery (which is delicioso!).
Take a wander down Francis Street for antique shops & my favorite plant shop, Hopeless Botanics. They don't bore you with the latin names for the plants. Instead they categorize them by their hardiness! I have one of their 'impossible to kill' plants slowing dying in my living room.
Meath Street for the aforementioned street traders. Vicar Street is one of Dublin's best music venues, check their schedule to see who is playing.
10.Teeling Distillery
This is Ireland, so of course there's lots of whiskey. In Dublin we have Jameson, Roe & Co but I really like Teeling. It's smaller and more personal. They are a perfect example of the regeneration in the Liberties and are a big success story.
I prefer Teeling Distillery over the nearby Roe & Coe. But my favourite distillery in further down this list at #12.
11.Guinness Storehouse
It's Guinness. Go. Everyone goes.
1.7 million people went last year. It gets very busy, but I'm going to tell you the best ways to visit.
Guinness Storehouse Experience
This is the basic entry. It's a self guided tour through an exhibition. You don't actually tour the brewery. It is an exhibition with bars. But it is superbly done.
You work your way to the top floor where there is the Gravity Bar and you get one pint of delicious Guinness that is included in admission. Bad news is that you can't buy more pints in the Gravity Bar. It's very crowded and they want you to move on to create space for the next group.
Definitely book ahead of time !!
The Connoisseur Tour
Visiting Guinness is something you'll do once in your life, so you may as well do it properly. The Connoisseur Tour is the business class of Guinness tours.
I was trying to think of how to describe it when I saw this online.
The connoisseur experience was 100% worth it. It was our first day after an overnight flight so sitting and listening to history, storytelling (& a bit of traditional irish music peppered in from a speaker at the bartender’s leisure from time to time), inside a really nice bar amid a small group was perfect. We also skipped a SUPER long line that stretched back and forth outside while it was pouring rain. They lifted a velvet rope and we were seated 2-3 mins later upstairs. It’s a flight of pints, so a lot of beer— at least 5. You learn to pour the last one yourself & they give you a certificate. 10/10 worth it over a “self tour” which is just walking around and reading things (you can still do this after the connoisseurs experience if you want to)
Book your Connoisseur Tour here.
12.Pearse Lyons Distillery
Writing about Teeling reminds me of another fabulous distillery and this one is in an old church. "Honey, I'm just off to church for a few hours"
It gets more interesting because the founder was an Irishman who is in the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame! Another smaller and more unique distillery for you to visit. It's actually my favorites of all the distilleries in Dublin because it is family owned, not corporate owned. Here's where to get your tickets
I just wrote a review about my visit to the Pearse Lyon Distillery
Dame Line Details
- 2 hour walk & 4kms
- Here is the Google Maps Route
The Final Word on the Dame Line
The Dame Line is brings you from Trinity to Guinness. Take your time, wander down side streets when they catch your eye, and remember that Dame Street will always be there to guide you back.
This route hits many of Dublin's must-see attractions, but without the usual tourist confusion. You now know which parts to linger in and which to breeze through
Plan Ahead And Save Money
I've mentioned a few times, but the Dublin Pass is worthwhile if you're into museums and attractions. If you're a planner, you'll definitely save money. I'm the type who will put together a spreadsheet with each place and estimated time spent there.
Next Up
The Grafton Line is the next line for you to explore in Dublin City
Darragh
Come on Walking Tour
I lead walking tours, in the same style as you've just read here. No BS, but lots of good entertaining stories and spots you won't find on your own. And the best tours are my coastal village one.
