The Mizen Head Peninsula. Many skip it. You shouldn't!
The Mizen Peninsula packs so much into its small space. It's a fantastic day drive where you see tiny villages, beaches, cliffs to rival the famous ones and much less tourists. You'll hear way more Irish accents than overseas ones today. Follow locals, we know the best places to go!
The thing that makes Mizen special is that so many people skip it. Especially North Americans. I just spent a week in this area and did not hear one single US accent. I heard from German, French, Italian and Irish, but no American. Not a knock on Americans at all. But if you want to see somewhere many people skip, this is it.
The less famous places are really where to go. Coach tours have ruined the famous places. Come to Mizen. You'll love it. Here's why.
Ballydehob
The N71 is the road that runs through West Cork, but we will leave it at Ballydehob. A quirky village with a population of less than 500, but it has a Michelin rated dining spot, Restaurant Chestnut.
If you are there on a Friday, there's a trad music session in one of the pubs, and I think this perfectly captures the spirit of small Irish villages, they rotate the session between the different pubs. So ask where it's on tonight.
The Ballydehob Jazz Festival is better than New Orleans. It really is, for the craic at least.
Schull
Pronounced Skull. You could look at Schull as Kinsale's little cousin. Upmarket, foodie spots, sailing and unfortunately had an infamous murder (along with the mandatory true crime podcast about it).
It's very pleasant to wander around, filled with cafes, restaurants and bars. Or take a day cruise to Cape Clear Island from Schull.
You can happily spend a night or two here at the Schull Harbour Hotel. You'll be surrounded by Irish people doing the same. This is one of those spots we keep to ourselves.
Schull, County Cork
Goleen
You'll drive along the scenic & narrow road towards Goleen. When I see people asking about 'authentic' in Ireland, this is it. But you've never heard of it right? That's what makes it authentic.
Galley Cove Beach
It was a gorgeous sunny day when I was here. People were sunbathing on this gorgeous beach, some lucky ones were camping here. Others were enjoying the mobile sauna after their swim. I envied the people who live close enough to do this regularly. We sat and chatted with them. No one was in a rush. This is Ireland.
Crookhaven
A winding road brought us to Crookhaven, the end of the road & Sullivan's Bar, home to the most southerly pint in Ireland. Overlooking a bay that was more Norwegian fjord than Irish. Sullivan's was busy. Another travel rule of mine, don't go to the busy place. There's always a better option close by and the single page menu Crookhaven Inn was much more to my liking. Excellent food & quieter vibe.
Barley Cove Beach
If this beach was in St Maarten, billionaires would have minimalistic glass mansions overlooking it. Instead, it's in grey and damp Ireland, so sheep get the million euro views. But on a summer's day, the water is Caribbean crystal clear blue. One of the nicest beaches in Ireland. It was busy on this rare sunny day though, so we admired from afar and kept going.
Mizen Head
Mizen Head is known to every Irish person because we grew up hearing it on the shipping forecast on the radio. It's an old signal station at the tip of the Mizen Peninsula with cliffs & views that rival the Cliffs Of Mohers. It really is that spectacular.
I even put it ahead of the Cliffs because I feel everywhere you turn, there's a different type of scenery here. It has cliffs, a bridge high above the water. The gap between the rocks when you're on the bridge. There's more views from the behind the signal station. Look to the right and you can see down the northern side of the Mizen Peninsula. Walk back towards the visitors centre and you see cows with more scenic pasture field in Ireland.
Mizen Head is unmissable for me. It's that good. I don't have the words to tell you how outrageously beautiful it is, so here's some photos instead.
Mizen Head - Click to Enlarge
Mizen Head
Three Castle Head
For such a scenic spot, Three Castle Head is under visited. Maybe because you have to walk 30 minutes to get to it? I'm very happy to walk if it means seeing these dramatic ruins of Dunlough Castle (1207). The ruins sit on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic. Local legend talks about a White Lady who haunts the castle, she supposedly jumped from one of the towers. I've never seen her, but then again, I've never stayed past sunset. Not that I'm scared or anything...
Head for Home
You might read this and say "oh that looks doable in a half day". It's not. You stop all the time, you chat to people. You shake your head in disbelief at the scenery. You walk on the beaches.
I just did drove the Mizen Peninsula this Summer and bailed before I got to Three Castle Head. I was happy. I'd seen enough and was getting hangry. It's been there a few hundred years, it's an excuse for me to come back again.
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