Mayo: Where the Wild Atlantic Way Actually Feels Wild

County Mayo is home to my single favorite scenic spot in all of Ireland. A place that even had jaded old "I've seen everything in Ireland" me actually shouting out with joy when I stumbled upon it. And I wasn't even embarrassed by my outburst because my only witnesses were a few sheep. This place was beautiful and empty.

Mayo is just that, beautifully empty. It is Ireland's 3rd biggest county but it is under populated by natives and under visited by tourists. It’s a joy to explore its wide open spaces, especially in the Summer months when its wild weather calms down and the southwest hotspots are too crowded to enjoy.

Mayo is for you if.....

• You are more interested in coastal landscapes than famous sites
• You want to see authentic Irish villages, not the tourist version
• You like stumbling upon sites that you may get lost finding
• You’re outdoorsy, love mountains, beaches, hiking, fishing & water sports
• You're here in the Summer. Skip the packed Southwest & come here instead.

Mayo is famous for

• Croagh Patrick. Ireland's holy mountain.
• Wild Nephin National Park. Bleak, boggy, beautiful.
• Westport. A classic Irish town and its musical pubs
• Achill Island. Home to the Banshee of Inisherin
• Downpatrick Head and its massive sea stack.

Where To Stay In Mayo

• Ashford Castle, Cong - A once in a lifetime splurge worthy experience
• The Ice House, Ballina - A former icehouse turned sanctuary by the river
• The Castlecourt Hotel, Westport - Spa hotel in the centre of Westport
• Stella Maris Shore House, Ballycastle - One of Ireland's Top 50 Hotels
• Pure Magic Lodge, Achill Island - Laid back surf vibe with sea views

Fun Things To Do In Mayo

• Achill Bog Tours. Cut your own piece of turf
• Learn to SUP or kitesurf with Pure Magic Achill Island
• Do a Hawk Walk at Ireland's School of Falconry at Ashford Castle.
• Walk up the Croagh Patrick mountain
• Stargaze in the Mayo Dark Sky Park

Places To Visit in Mayo

I put these in order coming from the south and heading north.

Ashford Castle

This 800 year old castle was formerly owned by the Guinness family, but today is one of the most luxurious hotels not just in Ireland, but in Europe. It has 83 rooms, you can stay in the same room as King George V. On its 350 acres, you can do falconry, see Irish Wolfhounds, go salmon fishing, play golf or just walk the grounds. It's not cheap, but it's something that is worth the once in a lifetime experience. The local village of Cong is very picturesque with an abbey to visit, but you probably won't leave the hotel. Ashford Castle, Cong

Louisburgh

Mayo has these small villages that you can drive through and think nothing of them, but if you stop, park the car and walk around, you'll see there's more than you thought here. You won't go hungry or thirsty in Louisburgh. The Seven Wanders Cafe could be in any big city in the world while McNamara's bar could only be in a small Irish rural village.

Eat your fill and then drive to Carrownisky Beach. Oh my word, what a beach. Long, rocky, sandy, blues and greens while you half expect to meet a donkey and cart on the narrow lanes as you drive to get there. A fabulous place if you give it time. The Garden Room at Sleepy Hollow in Louisburgh has an unheard of 9.9 rating on Booking.com. Never seen a rating that high ever.

Clare Island

You've heard of the Aran Islands, yes so has everyone else. That's why you should go to the Clare Islands of the world instead. Just 20 minutes from Roonagh by boat, you arrive at on this island which is Hollywood movie producers dream when you think of Ireland.It has just 130 residents, a few tractors, walking trails, perhaps the most scenic football field in Ireland. The day I went was so warm that the sheep were sheltering behind bushes. I wandered the narrow roads on my own, just standing the side every half hour or so to let a tractor pass. Next time I will stay the night.

Less Aran, more Clare.

Croagh Patrick

Pronounced Crow Patrick, they say he spent 40 days and nights up here. I hope it was in the Summer. On the last Sunday in July, pilgrims trek up to the summit. But you can do it any day of the year. It's 'only' 784 meters high, so it's very doable for anyone with reasonable fitness. There is a church on the summit but the views are the best rewards. This is really cool thing to do on your trip, you'll get chatting to all the other walkers on the route, they'll nearly all be Irish, so it's more cultural than most of the paid tourist traps on the island.

Westport

Westport is the most popular town in Mayo for visitors. Matt Molloy's pub & its traditional music sessions is the main reason. It's a lovely town aside from that. Centred around the river, Westport always ranks high in best places to live in Ireland. It has that nice mixture of being big enough that there's plenty to see and do, but without being too big and losing its charm. It's where many visitors base themselves during their time in Mayo. Stay at the The Castlecourt Hotel, Westport

Newport

Westport gets the press, but I like Newport and often stay here. It's quiet, barely noticeable but has just enough to stroll around after a day's drive and feel like you fit in here. The viaduct crossing the river is a nice backdrop as you eat your dinner outdoors at one of the pubs. It's not touristy, it's more local and nearly feels like you're staying with a friend. I love Westport but it's like the good looking sibling who knows they're hot. Newport is the equally attractive sibling without the confidence. Hotel Newport is where I always stay.

Achill Island

I've spent the most time in Mayo in Achill, but this is the hardest one to write about. Achill is a feeling, rather than a place. If you've seen the Banshee of Inisherin, you've already virtually visited Achill and you'll understand why it was set there. Amidst the beauty, there's isolation.

The beaches at Keel & Keem are among Ireland's best. Drive up the scary road to Minaun Point and look down at Keel Beach, home to world class kitesurfing conditions. The road to Keem is just as scary, I stick to the right and hope no one is coming down, but it's worth it. Lynotts Pub would be an unbearable tourist pub if it was in Dingle, but here it is just another pub, albeit a very special one.

I stay at Pure Magic Lodge, Achill Island with the surfers. If you prefer something more more traditional, try the Murrayville B&B.

Wild Nephin National Park

It's Wild that for sure. 15,000 hectares of bogs, rivers and forests. And it's very empty. You'll drive alongside it rather than through it. There are boardwalks through some parts of it but it has been described as "I think, the very loneliest place in this country”" It's a Dark Sky Reserve so if you are there are night, it'll be dark. Turn off your lights and look to the skies. You might just see the Milky Way with the naked eye.

Benwee Head

I only found this place because I saw a sign for a Gaeltacht area, a place where Irish is the spoken language and decided to practice my Irish. I had no idea what was waiting for me at the end of the road. I didn't know that there would be cliffs to nearly rival the Cliffs of Moher or one old man in a suit cutting bog from the turf and that wasn't even the best of it.

I hiked along the path with just sheep for company and looked out over the sea at the islands below. More cliffs, all while sidestepping a strange round pond. I looked in disbelief at this scene, trying to take it all in. And most mystifying was why I was the only person in sight except for the turf cutter. This place was worth of tour buses and visitors center, but mercifully it had none of that.

A very special place. Go but tell no one else. Go one step better and spend the night at the Cherry Blossom.

Rinroe Beach

But wait there's more! Like a late night infomercial, I was still in shock at Benwee Head when just 5 minutes later, on the same peninsula I drove to the the peak and looked down at a beach that was surely a Caribbean beach. No, it was Rinroe Beach. Turquoise, horseshoe shaped and about twenty lucky souls enjoying it on this rare sunny day.

I have set up a property alert in the piece of heaven.

Céide Fields

You arrive at the impressive visitor center and look out, just see fields and wonder what the big deal is. Well these fields tell us that 5500 years ago, my ancestors were no longer hunter gathers roaming wherever the food was, but instead had developed to an organized system of farming. Now you begin to understand its important, our civilized society had its origins here. Look out at the views over the sea and think of all the people in those thousands of years who have looked at the same view. Ireland is old. Very old.

Downpatrick Head

Downpatrick Head is worth driving to Mayo just for this and nothing else. Another high coastal setting that if there was nothing else there, would still be fabulous.

Named because St Patrick himself founded a church here & created the 50 meter high sea stick when a pagan chieftain refused to convert to Christianity. He stook his crozier in the ground and the land split away creating the Dun Bríste sea stack.

That's the highlight but it also a blowhole that is hard to look away from, cliffs that are nearly as cool as their more famous rivals in Clare and views over half of the west coast of Ireland.

The Stella Maris Shore House in nearby Ballycastle is one the top 50 hotels in Ireland per Ireland's top newspaper.

Unmissable.

Belmullet

I love Belmullet. It's another not famous on the tourist trail town, but you can picture yourself living in this tight community as you sip your pint in An Phub Sa Cúinne (the pub in the corner). Surrounded by water and beaches. The locals were swimming in the the sea pool and then going to the mobile saunas next to it. The beaches near by are full of people doing water sports including me! Stay at the Talbot to get a real taste of village life.

Ballina

It's Mayo's largest town but only has a population of 10,000. Ballina doesn't get as many visitors but it's more local than Westport. If you're coming from the northwest, it's a good town to stay and get a fresh start the next morning as you start to explore Mayo. Fishing is a big deal here, you'll see waders being put on next to the river.

Why visit a castle when you can stay in one at Belleek Castle. Or try The Ice House and have an outdoor bath overlooking the river.

How Long To Spend In Mayo

My advice for Ireland is always pick one region of the country and take your time exploring it. It's Step 2 of my 10 Steps To Plan Your Irish Trip. So assuming you've chosen the northwest region of Mayo, Sligo & Donegal to explore, then I think 3 days in Mayo is perfect.

In a place as widespread as Mayo, it's hard to give a fixed itinerary without knowing where you are coming from or going to. But let's break it up into regions and assume a day in each.

You can spend a night or two in the more southern region in Louisburgh or Westport. The Castlecourt Hotel in Westport is superb, Use that as a base to explore those towns themselves, go to Clare Island, Doolough Valley.

From there move on to Achill Island itself. It's so unique that it's worthy of a couple of night.

The lovely Stella Maris Shore House in Ballycastle is perfect for the northern coast of Mayo.

The Bad News

You need a car in Mayo. It's too isolated for public transport.