Cork Like a Local: Your Guide to Ireland's Rebel County

Why Cork?

Cork gets overlooked in favor of Kerry by many visitors. Kerry J'Adore, but Cork has Kerry's beauty and food that might just nudge Kerrygold into second place. Even the strong Cork accent grows on you, like.

I'm a proud Dubliner and have too many Cork friends to openly admit that Cork is my favorite county, so I won't.

Our Local Cork Insider

Cork native John Dooley is giving us the local insider tips for Cork. John is a PGA pro who owns Concierge Golf Ireland. John's travels around the golf courses of Cork make him a true Cork local expert.

Hubs

The big mistake visitors to Ireland make is changing towns every night. Instead, stay in one place for at least 3 days, a Hub, and explore at a relaxed pace. Read about our Hub system.

Travel less & experience more.

Our Cork Hub: Kinsale

Kinsale is a colorful coastal town that is the food capital of Ireland. The small town's many restaurants get their fish straight off the boats on the pier.

Kinsale is a bit more touristy than our usual hubs, but it is where Irish people go on holidays and so it retains a very Irish feel.

Folks come from Cork City & Dublin to dine in the Michelin restaurants of Kinsale. The energy and craic on a sunny Summer evening is hard to beat here. It's a genuine Irish experience.

What To Do Around Cork

Here's 5 day trips laid out here to explore this region of Cork. Pick your favorites, skip what doesn't interest you, or combine some days to see Cork in 3 days instead. By the end of your time in Kinsale, the locals will be nodding at you in recognition!

1. In and Around Kinsale

The Scilly Walk To Charles Fort

The Charles Fort was built in 1682, is star shaped and is just a 40 minute walk from Kinsale along the delightfully named Scilly Walk. For a 340 year old structure, it's in good condition. Enjoy the beautiful views over Kinsale Harbour

That is English that the guides are speaking, it's just the Cork version.

Eat & Drink in Kinsale

Walk the streets of Kinsale, eat fish and drink Murphys or Beamish, none of that Guinness stuff down here in Cork. Choose your restaurant wisely, a crowded place in a tourist town often means good marketing rather than good food. Take a risk on a quieter, smaller spot, and bonus points if it's down a side street.

Listen for Irish accents in a restaurant rather than overseas accents, because locals know best!

The Kinsale 9/11 Garden of Remembrance

This is an unexpected as it is solemn. The Kinsale Garden of Remembrance was established by a Kinsale lady, Kathleen Cait Murphy who worked as a nurse for over 30 years in New York City. 344 trees planted in Kinsale to remember Father Michael Judge & 343 the members of the NYFD who lost their lives on 9/11.

The Sauna Snugg

This is my vibe completely and very local. Go for a swim at Garrylucas Beach, then warm up at The Sauna Snugg, a mobile sauna wagon. It’s cool looking on the outside, while sweltering hot inside. You will definitely be mixing with locals here. You’ll be in tight quarters and will make sweaty friends easily. Check ahead for their opening times at The Sauna Snugg.

If you’re feeling adventurous, do a kitesurfing lesson at this beach. It’s one of the best spots in Cork for it.

Old Head Kinsale Golf Club

The Old Head of Kinsale golf club is maybe the most spectacular golf course in all of Ireland. If you're a golfer, it's surely on your bucket list. Speaking of buckets, bring a lot of balls. The cliffs surrounding the course are a magnet for wayward hits and have claimed countless Titleists over the years.

Our Cork local, John Dooley at Concierge Golf Ireland has the connections to get you a tee time.

2. Clonakilty, Courtmacsherry & Inchydoney

Today, you're heading west out of Kinsale. Lots to see and explore.

Clonakilty Market

Clonakilty was very nearly our Cork hub instead of Kinsale. Love this town. If you've had an Irish breakfast, Clon is home to the best known producer of Irish black and white pudding. I try not to think of what the black pudding is made of and just enjoy the taste.

There's a market here on Fridays from 9am-2pm and it's a perfect excuse to drive over to Clonakilty. While you're here, I like the Clonakilty Distillery. Their barley is grown on their own nearby farm. Does that make it Farm to Bottle?

Surfing at Inchydoney Beach

Inchydoney Beach is possibly the most beautiful beach in all of Cork. And, it's a haven for surfing with fantastic waves. Inchydoney Surf School will get you riding.

Visit during weekday mornings for quieter waves and better surf conditions.

The Kilbritain Whale

In 2009, a 65-ft whale washed up in Courtmacsherry Bay. Despite efforts to save it, it died and now its sizable skeleton is on show in Kilbritain and not Courtmacsherry, who were left blubbering. You can read more about that territorial dispute in a poem at the whale.

While you're there, do the 4km Castle Walk that brings you by the, well yes, the castle.

It's these little villages that I love, you can easily drive by them, but once you stop and explore, you'll see how much there is so see. And the locals are so friendly because it is under visited. Authentic Ireland by locals.

The Fuschsia Loop

We're off to the Clogheen Marsh Nature Reserve for this walk. It's only 5km and is colorful in season, as the name would suggest. This brings you through farmland, forest, coastline, cliffs, and yes, fuchsias.

Keep an eye out for rowers from the nearby rowing club. While Olympian rowers hail from Skibereen, they're still decent here too.

You can go whale watching from Courtmacsherry too.

Michael Collins Centre: A Leader in Ireland's Fight for Freedom

This center is dedicated to the life of Michael Collins, one of Ireland’s most influential historical figures. He’s a very big deal in Ireland, also called The Big Man. Remember the Julia Roberts/Liam Neeson movie?

Tim, who runs the center, is a passionate character who has dedicated his life to this. It’s different but absolutely worth a visit for the history buff. It’s a remote enough spot, so you’ll enjoy some tiny villages en route. Michael Collins Centre 

3. Ballycotton, Ballymaloe & Middleton

It's an hour drive to Ballycotton where you can stretch your legs on the cliff walk, take a boat to the lighthouse, then reward yourself with some food and finish the day with a nice whiskey.

Ballycotton Cliff Walk

This spectacular cliff walk leads you along the cliffs of Ballycotton. It's 8km long and you have stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Ballycotton Lighthouse. Do this walk, it’s one of my favorites in Cork.

Video credit: Matt Aucott on YouTube

Boat to Ballycotton Lighthouse

There are many boat tours in Cork, some on large, touristy boats where you're herded on like animals boarding the Ark.

Ballycotton (Baile Choitín in Irish) means 'Town of Small Boats', so it's fitting that Ballycotton Sea Adventures' boat only carries ten visitors, making it my favorite in Cork. It's cozy and conducive to chat, exactly how a boat trip in Ireland should be.

The 175 year old Ballycotton Lighthouse is one of the 12 Great Lighthouses of Ireland. Enjoy the views from the top across the mountains of Munster and The Atlantic Ocean.

Ballycotton's Ghost Ship

You may be picturing an 18th century ghostly shipwreck, but this one is more recent, 2020. The MV Alta drifted across the Atlantic after engine failure until it crashed on the shores of Ireland.

Video credit: Drone Hawk on YouTube

Ballymaloe. The Home of Irish Cooking

Ballymaloe transformed Irish food and the thinking behind it. Darina Allen founded it in 1983, and it has grown to become the most famous cooking school in Ireland. Their 100-acre organic farm supplies their own produce, inspiring a change in how Ireland thinks about food. This little corner of Ireland is now known throughout the culinary world.

People come from all over to do their 12-week course, which guarantees a position in any kitchen in Ireland. For the rest of us, they do half-day classes and serve lunch. Ballymaloe Cooking School 

Rostellan Farm. Midleton's Second Favorite Drink

If you want a more local, and less world famous lunch, head for Rostellan Farm. Their cafe features their own home grown produce, but it's their milk vending machine that makes them unique. They milk their Holstein Herd every morning and you can pour your own milk from a vending machine. Supersize please!

Midleton Distillery

Speaking of delicious liquids, next up is some liquid gold at Midleton Distillery.

I prefer to support local distilleries, but if you're into whiskey, Midleton is probably why you came to Ireland. Fair warning though, Midleton Very Rare ruined me!

I was happy with my Connemara, a smoky peaty whiskey that was easy on both pocket and tongue. Then a happy client bought me a pour of Midleton Very Rare at the end of our tour. My poor Connemara never tasted the same again. I still savor that lingering Very Rare tingle on my tongue.

Tip: Try The Spot whiskeys (Yellow, Green, Red) from the same company. They're beautiful whiskeys at a better price. Buy all your whiskey at the airport Duty Free, it's a lot cheaper there..

4. Cobh, Titanic & Spike Island

Today, you'll visit the port town of Cobh and learn about smoked salmon from the master.

Cobh. The Titanic's Final Harbour

Cobh is famous as the last port of call for the Titanic. This was the last piece of land those passengers looked back at as the Titanic left for the New World. The Titanic Experience is worth a visit and you can snap the town's colorful streets.

Cobh gets cruise ships, avoid going when there’s a ship in town. This small town gets overcrowded with cruisers.

Spike Island: Ireland's Alcatraz

Spike Island was enough to strike fear into any Irish teenager when I was growing up. “Keep doing that and you’ll end up on Spike” was enough to mute the most boisterous of little brats. The Irish Alcatraz has served as a monastery and a prison. Today you can visit it and you should. The views from the ferry & the island are spectacular.

Irish Salmon. Smoked and Hung

Irish salmon is the stuff of legends and veteran smoker Frank Hederman is himself a legend for smoked salmon, both wild salmon caught locally and organic Irish fish. This is the best salmon you will ever try. And it's Irish as could be. 

At Hederman’s salmon is cured and smoked in small batches in Irelands only traditional timber smoke house. Here fish are hung for flavour and tender texture rather than shelf life. Come, see and taste the difference at this last remaining artisan smokehouse while you can. Book ahead of time.

5. What To Do in Cork City

Today, you're off to Cork City itself. It's a small enough town, you could cover it in half a day if you need to, or relax for the day here. You could combine it with some of the Cobh

Cork City

Cork is a fabulous & lively town. Just like the lyrical Cork accent, the city is up and down with so many hills, so don't forget your walking shoes!

I like walking tours in cities. They're good to get your bearings, never expensive, the guides are usually characters and you get so much local knowledge. This is a good walking tour in Cork Cork City Ramble

After the walk, go wander around on your own. Cork is small, you won't get lost! If you do, just follow the River Lee as your guide.

One hidden gem I love is Nano Nagle Place, a newly restored 18th-century walled convent. You wouldn't know it's there unless someone told you (that's why I'm telling you!), but it has a lovely garden, café, and occasional concerts. It's the kind of peaceful spot that tourists usually miss.

While catching breath at the top of a hill, look around for the ethnic restaurants in Cork. Many of its immigrants have opened restaurants with food from their home country and they're so good. And a change from the food in the more rural towns.

You deserve a pint by now, so stop in a pub, (a locals one, we don't do touristy pubs on this site!) and ask someone perched on a high stool what any of these means for an easy conversation starter: gowl, langer, haunted, pure daycent, beour, a jag.

Popular but Overrated

Blarney Castle

Blarney Castle is famous for its kissing stone. You pay to queue to kiss a rock that thousands of others have kissed? The stone is underwhelming, the tour bus crowds are overwhelming so it’s a big skip for me. Find a local to kiss instead. They've usually only been kissed by hundreds.

The Last Word on Cork

While the crowds rush to Kerry, you'll be exploring Cork's winding coastal roads and tiny fishing villages. You'll meet passionate food producers, chat with locals in proper pubs, and eat food that would make a Michelin inspector searching for superlatives. Cork locals will tell you this is the real capital of Ireland. Give it a few days here and you might just agree with them.

And that's just one half of Cork! Now off to West Cork with you, you langer!

Remember, Follow Locals, Not Crowds

Planning a trip to Cork? We're here to help. Leave your questions in the comments below. And if you're a local with insider tips, share them here too.

Next up: our guide to West Cork. Trust us, it's even more beautiful than what you've seen here.